Among Dureuil's reds, the 2023 Mercurey has turned out especially well, offering up notes of sweet berries, spices and licorice, followed by a medium- to full-bodied, velvety and polished palate. The higher-quality vine genetics that Dureuil replanted with here make a clear impact. This 20-hectare estate, one of the leading lights of southern Burgundy, has been directed by Vincent Dureuil-Janthial since 1994. Farming is to all intents and purposes organic, though no longer certified after the devastating 2016 growing season, and Dureuil believes in picking at full maturity, often harvesting later than his neighbors. Long pressing, lees retention and two winters' élevage (the second in vat) are the rudiments of his approach to white wine making. Reds see classical macerations in ancient open-top wood vats. Both colors mature in barrels made by Stéphane Chassin, formerly Dureuil's neighbor in Rully but now ensconced in more commodious facilities in Beaune. I'm including my reviews of Dureil's wines in this report not merely because he does produce several cuvées from Puligny-Montrachet and Nuits-Saint-Georges but also because the sophistication and quality of what he bottles from Rully can embarrass plenty of grander appellations to the north. The 2023s at this address show the flesh and fruit-forward generosity typical of the vintage but with the estate's trademark tension and precision, and they will offer broad drinking windows.(WK)