A discreet but not invisible touch of wood surrounds the ripe aromas of apple, pear and citrus rind. The succulent and relatively dense middle weight flavors conclude in a clean, refreshing and lingering finale. This is very good for its level and worth considering.*Burghound Outstanding!*

From a small parcel in lieu-dit La Combe in Puligny-Montrachet, Dureuil's 2023 Bourgogne Chardonnay offers up notes of citrus oil, crisp orchard fruit and freshly baked bread, followed by a medium-bodied, satiny and bright palate that's fine-boned and mouthwatering. This 20-hectare estate, one of the leading lights of southern Burgundy, has been directed by Vincent Dureuil-Janthial since 1994. Farming is to all intents and purposes organic, though no longer certified after the devastating 2016 growing season, and Dureuil believes in picking at full maturity, often harvesting later than his neighbors. Long pressing, lees retention and two winters' élevage (the second in vat) are the rudiments of his approach to white wine making. Reds see classical macerations in ancient open-top wood vats. Both colors mature in barrels made by Stéphane Chassin, formerly Dureuil's neighbor in Rully but now ensconced in more commodious facilities in Beaune. I'm including my reviews of Dureil's wines in this report not merely because he does produce several cuvées from Puligny-Montrachet and Nuits-Saint-Georges but also because the sophistication and quality of what he bottles from Rully can embarrass plenty of grander appellations to the north. The 2023s at this address show the flesh and fruit-forward generosity typical of the vintage but with the estate's trademark tension and precision, and they will offer broad drinking windows.(WK)