‘Everything is here,’ I wrote after tasting the Musigny from Drouhin-Laroze. There is a lush, hedonistic mulberry and pomegranate fruit, with notes of ginger, allspice and woodsmoke. The texture is dense and concentrated, with a tannic grip cloaked in that lush fruit. The domaine has made good use of its tiny 0.12ha slice of Grand Musigny, gently fermenting with 30% of the grapes as whole clusters before racking into cask for ageing.

This comes from 0.12 ha that run from the top to the bottom of the slope, in the absolute heart of Musigny. Given its tiny production, it sees all new oak. Plus, 25% whole cluster is used. The nose unfurls with aplomb: Marasca cherries, blueberry coulis, potpourri and oodles of savory spice. The oak gives the pure fruit a run for first place, but the tour de force concentration will absorb this influence in due time. Compared to the other Grand Crus here in this vintage, the tannins are remarkably pliant and gentle. Spritely acidity guides the panoply of vibrant flavors into a long-lasting finish. Give this six to seven years before popping the cork.

Refined and poised, the 2023 Musigny Grand Cru has a very pure and powerful bouquet of redcurrant and wild strawberry—a multi-faceted Musigny that blossoms in the glass. The palate is medium-bodied with satin-like tannins, a perfect line of acidity and a persistent, almost understated finish. Excellent.(NM)