2024 Giant Steps "Circle of Fifths" Chardonnay Yarra Valley Victoria

The 2024 Circle of Fifths Chardonnay comprises a blend of all five single vineyards. The wine shows a little of all, and in so doing, some of none. There is the austerity of acidity and cavalcade of crushed, salted and pasted nuts, lemon zest, citrus oil and green leaves, coupled finally with the floral and tea-like notes evident in all five cuvées. It's an interesting composition, perhaps a little frenetic, like some of John Coltrane's work (Circle of Fifths is named after the jazz arrangement toward the circle of fifths root movement, whereas Coltrane's proclivity is in thirds, which is unusual. Giant Steps was named after Coltrane's studio album), but pleasurable in just the same way. In its way, this wine endorses and emphasizes the singularity of the single-vineyard wines, but it offers immense satisfaction of its own accord as well. 13% alcohol, sealed under screw cap. (EL)

Intense, focused and vibrant, with flavors of Meyer lemon, Cosmic Crisp apple, orange zest, lime sorbet, sage flower and a drizzle of wildflower honey that are energetic and lively, showing plenty of intensity. Hints of tarragon, sea salt and clary sage flower linger on the long, expressive and powerful finish. (MW)