This is extremely well-made, with sliced dried apples, apple tart, flint and matchstick as well as a hints of smoke. It’s medium-bodied with lovely fruit and a light bitterness that gives complexity and presence. (JS)

The 2022 North Canterbury Chardonnay is expressive and exotic on the nose—there are dried herbs and exotic spice, layers of dehydrated orange peel, graphite, white pepper, hints of yellow peach, flakes of sea salt and shaved fennel. In the mouth, the wine is rich and sapid; it penetrates deep into the palate and stains it with flavor. It holds a tight line of restraint and is a pleasure to behold. It’s satisfying and detailed. The wine went through 100% malolactic fermentation. “We're basically waiting for the acidity to drop before we pick it, so we get total acidities of 10 and get to do full malo,” says winemaker Huw. 14% alcohol, sealed under screw cap. (EL)

This strikes a lovely balance between richness and brightness, combining smoke, nut and toast characteristics with lemon curd and white peach. Acidity is mouthwatering, buoying the textural weight, fruit and oak influence. This is a smart wine that could age nicely over the next five to eight years. (CP)