Very spiced with deep, dark earth and forest aromas of black truffles, bark, mushrooms, licorice and iodine. Full-bodied and very reserved, with a linear and racy palate that goes on for minutes. Gunpowder highlights to the dark fruit and forest floor character. Structured. Try after 2028.

Showing the power and the contoured definition that is typical of Serralunga d'Alba, the Gaja 2020 Barolo Sperss is a wine of greater brawn and intensity. Yet its power remains elegantly in line with the character of the vintage that is ultimately more subdued compared to 2019 or the upcoming 2021. It offers a complete photograph of its territory with rusty ferrous notes, orange peel, dark fruit and licorice. There is a fun end note of dark Amarena cherry to conclude. That hint of sweetness ties into elegantly chalky tannins. (ML) 97+