A pure and still primary bouquet of cassis, raspberry, woodsmoke and espresso leads into a deep, concentrated palate with a firm core of tannin and acidity. It will need a good deacde to truly blossom in the cellar, and ideally longer. (WK)

The 2015 Santenots du Milieu from Comtes Lafon is another absolutely stellar young bottle of Volnay. The bouquet is pure, focused and utterly classic in its mix of black cherries, cassis, dark chocolate, gamebird, a complex base of dark soil tones, woodsmoke, cedar and a pungent topnote of violets. On the palate the wine is pure, full-bodied and rock solid at the core, with great transparency, fine-grained tannins, excellent acids and a very long, complex and perfectly balanced finish. Classic juice that may well rival wines from this vineyard such as the 1978, 1989, 1993 and 1999 here in the fullness of time.

Full rich bright crimson colour with a lively generous energy of fruit. A mass of raspberries with some fresh, early season strawberries alongside, garriguettes perhaps. Completely balanced and fresher than one might expect. The finish is beautifully poised and very long, with more red fruit returning at the back. Chapeau. Less tannin extraction from this point. Could start now but there is so much more to come.