Fine mid purple, good depth and serenity on the nose, understated but waiting. The palate shows a remarkable depth of fruit, more than expected with the blueberry notes and a refreshing point of acidity.

The 2017 Clos de la Roche from Domaine Rousseau is another absolutely beautiful bottle in the making, with more early sex appeal on display than in either the Charmes or Mazy this year. The pure and seductive nose delivers a beautiful constellation of sappy red plums, cherries, raw cocoa, gamebird, a very complex base of soil, woodsmoke, a touch of violet and a discreet base of vanillin oak. On the palate the wine is deep, full-bodied, sappy and soil-driven, with beautifully fine-grained tannins, great focus and balance, exceptional complexity and grip and a very, very long and velvety finish. I love the lift here on the backend!

The 2017 Clos de la Roches Grand Cru, which is tasted from two barrels since one is reduced, has a well defined bouquet with brambly red fruit, candied orange peel, hints of cassis and later, vanilla pod. The palate is medium-bodied with grainy tannin, slightly sorbet in character with hints of mulberry and fig towards the complex and quite persistent finish. One of the more cerebral Clos de la Roche releases from Domaine Rousseau. (NM)