The 2023 Charmes-Chambertin Grand Cru has gained a little more complexity on the nose since I tasted it from barrel. It retains that pencil shaving scent intertwined with black plummy fruit, a bit more Mazoyères in style than before. The palate is very well balanced with finely tuned tannins, plush mouthfeel and a svelte texture. As I wrote before, it feels like there is slightly less acidity than other cuvées, but it retains balance with a very harmonious finish that is pure Charmes. Superb.(NM)

The 2023 Charmes-Chambertin Grand Cru is very charming, unfurling in the glass with aromas of cherries, berries, sweet spices and incense. Medium to full-bodied, supple and fleshy, it's bright and sensual, with a soft, giving profile, wearing its heart on its sleeve. This is another lovely set of wines from Pierre Duroché, emphasizing supple, sensual structures and expressive aromas. After the hailstorms of 2022, 2023 was less eventful, with warm weather punctuated by showers that alleviated any hydric stress. Harvest began on September 5, as usual with the Griotte-Chambertin. As readers may remember, Duroché has been experimenting with "tressage"—rolling vines' canopies instead of trimming them—in some parcels. In the cellar, new oak continues to make a minimal contribution, but the historic emphasis on Tonnellerie Cadus has diminished to avoid any one cooper defining the domaine style. Vinifications continue to be rather delicate, with comparatively short macerations and little in the way of pigéage. Fully renovated winery facilities, complete with a battery of made-to-measure stainless steel tanks, facilitate precision vinification, something that was a particular advantage in 2023.(WK)