The 2023 Perrières from Lafon shines as one of the best whites of the village, even at this early stage of its maturation. There are abundant aromas of ripe apple and Mirabelle plums, hints of hawthorn flowers, spice, a sheen of smoky reduction and a mineral accent. It is a wine of concentration and depth, with impressive extract and enough acidity to bring everything into balance. A portion of Lafon's vineyards in Perrières Dessous and Perrières Dessus has been replanted but this is from only the old vines, bringing the wine even more power.(CC)

Even the 2023 2023 Meursault “Perrières” was already racked at the time of my visit and was resting comfortably in tank. I assume that it was also racked in December, as it was still showing superbly well, offering up a deep and complex bouquet of pear, golden delicious apples, hazelnuts, a very complex foundation of stony minerality, fruit blossoms, geranium and vanillin oak. On the palate the wine is full-bodied, complex and not surprisingly, shows the finest depth at the core of any of these lovely premier crus, with great mineral drive and cut, impeccable balance and superb backend energy and lift on the focused, complex and very refined finish. (Drink between 2030-2060)

Derived exclusively from the domaine's old vines, the 2023 Meursault 1er Cru Perrières unwinds in the glass with notes of pear, orange oil, white flowers and citrus zest, followed by a medium to full-bodied, satiny and incisive palate. This is the raciest, most mineral wine in the Lafon cellar this year. The 2023 vintage is another success from Domaine des Comtes Lafon, now headed by Léa and Pierre Lafon, delivering both quantity and quality like 2022 before it, though in a somewhat fleshier, more extroverted style. While a few new cuvées have joined the range, for now, no big changes are afoot, and Dominque Lafon continues to be a guiding presence. Organic and biodynamic farming in the vineyards, barrel fermentation for whites, two winters' élevage on the lees for both colors and bottling under Diam technical corks (since 2013) continue to be the order of the day.(WK)