The 1983 Brunello di Montalcino Riserva La Storica is spellbinding, with an eyes-rolling-back-in-your-head display of crushed rocks, dried cherries and plums, complemented by notes of mint, cedar spice box and autumn leaves. You could lose yourself in the bouquet, but then you’d miss the elegant textures and how they wash across the palate, carrying zesty red fruits motivated by earthy mineral tones and bright acidity that keeps the expression remarkably fresh. Frankly, it’s amazing to think that this is a 38-year-old Brunello, as the 1983 finishes remarkably long and with the slightest hint of tannins still remaining, and nuances of clove, balsam herbs and rosy florals lingering on. Bravo. La Storica is a library-release program direct from the winery, with a sticker on the back and a numbered tag around the neck of the bottle to identify it as such. This is a bottling that was reconditioned by Franco Biondi Santi himself in the year 2000. Only 550 bottles were rereleased. It’s also important to note that this was the first vintage that the Riserva was made in the then-new winery and fermented in large, vertical oak vats, as opposed to concrete. It’s a gorgeous expression of time and place.