Didier Séguier’s 2023 Montée de Tonnerre is another superb example of the vintage. This wine is more reserved today than the last couple of premier crus in the lineup, but it shows outstanding depth at the core and great backend energy and lift. The wine’s aromatic constellation reveals scents of green apple, pear, lime, chalky minerality, citrus blossoms and a topnote of lime peel. On the palate the wine is deep, full-bodied, youthful and rock solid at the core, with brisk acids, laser-like focus, superb soil signature and a long, nascently complex and a very long, poised and balanced finish. All this excellent wine will need is time in the cellar to blossom! 2030-2060+.

Excellent depth of minerality and chalkiness, with smoky, flinty green apples. Chalky on the palate, with medium- to full-bodied character and a zesty, lightly saline finish. Energetic, with purity and inconspicuous depth and concentration. Drink or hold.

Reserved and serious, this is crystalline in fruit purity. Star fruit, yellow plums and brine make this a thoroughly gastronomic wine. It hums with pent-up tension, and it could certainly use a few years' slumber in the cellar. It is a "true" Montée de Tonnerre as it comes from all three sectors.