The 2023 Bougros chez Fèvre is another simply exceptional example of the vintage. The very precise nose offers up scents of apple, pear, lime, a complex base of chalky soil tones, white lilies and a topnote of orange peel. On the palate the wine is full-bodied, focused and complex, with superb mid-palate depth, with a marvelous undercarriage of limestone, bright acids and grip and a long, complex and impeccably balanced finish. Outstanding juice. 2031-2075.

This is all old vine fruit: 2 ha were planted by William's father then 2 ha were planted by William in the 1960s. Coming from the plateau, it results in a cooler style of Bougros with sea shells, crushed white peppercorns, candle wax and donut peach. Didier feels this is the Grand Cru where the most progress has been made in complexity.

Sourced from 60- to 70-year-old vines rooted in deep soils and invariably among the richer, more muscular wines in the range, the 2023 Chablis Grand Cru Bougros delivers aromas of peach, orange oil, beeswax, honeysuckle and pear. Medium- to full-bodied, ample and fleshy, it possesses a rich core of fruit underpinned by ripe yet lively acidity. It is the fleshier and most demonstrative wine in the lineup.(WK)