A zesty orchestra where Meyer lemons and lime peel play lead violin, backed by a chorus of crushed seashells. The performance hits every high note as citrus energy dances across a chalky mineral stage, building to a crescendo that makes you want to applaud. This may not be the family's calling card but do not be fooled, forget some in the cellar and you will be rewarded with one of the world's great aged wines at a value. (JP)