As I wrote last year, the 2023 Esprit de Tablas Blanc is poised and composed on the nose, straddling orchard fruit, citrus rind and white flower aromas with a rich, deep nuttiness at the core. The palate is punchy, powerful and round in texture with a surprising elegance and understated quality. The finish is seamless and direct, with a pleasing phenolic grip and lifted acidity surrounding a core of rich stone fruit flavors. This is a classic version of this wine, with perhaps a bit more energy overall, due to both the cool vintage and the lower percentage of Roussanne that has characterized the last few versions of this blend. This 2023 is composed of 48% Roussanne, 22% Grenache Blanc, 13% Picpoul Blanc, 10% Bourboulenc, 5% Picardan and 2% Clairette Blanche. 95+ (ML)

The 2023 Esprit de Tablas Blanc is gorgeous, speaking in whispers yet with so much to say. It impresses with a finessed bouquet that combines nectarines and honied florals with ginger-tinged apples and pears. The palate is silken in feel with medium-bodied weight as a pure wave of ripe pit fruits and a subtle hint of spice takes on a citrusy twang toward the close. Tactile mineral tones add a crunchy sensation through the long, perfumed finish. A glorious Esprit de Tablas Blanc that is already a total pleasure to taste, yet with the balance for a lovely evolution in bottle. (EG)