Roberto Conterno’s 2021 Gattinara “Vigna Valferana” is another superb wine in the making. The wine is just a touch more red fruity in personality than the Vigna Molsino, delivering a very refined aromatic constellation of red and black cherries, woodsmoke, pigeon, anise, a complex base of volcanic soil, fresh herb tones, peonies, brown spices and a hint of the nutskin to come with further bottle age. On the palate the wine is deep, full-bodied, focused and tangy, with a lovely core of fruit, superb soil signature and grip, ripe, well-integrated tannins and impeccable balance on the long, complex and excellent young finish. This does not quite have the same mid-palate depth of the Vigna Molsino, but I love its balance and backend lift and this may well nose out the Vigna Molsino twenty-five years from now with its elegance. It will be a fascinating competition to follow in the cellar!

An intense, perfumed and very floral wine with aromas of sweet violets, blood oranges, stone fruit and vermouth-like complexity. Full-bodied and concentrated on the palate, with dusty yet ripe tannins that are angular but balanced by fruit and integrated freshness. Try from 2026.