The 2021 Gattinara “Vigna Molsino” bottling from Roberto Conterno is a superb wine in the making. It tips the scales at fourteen percent octane in this vintage and was aged three-plus years in botti prior to bottling. The bouquet is deep and nascently complex, offering up a superb blend of red and black cherries, gamebird, a complex base of soil tones, a touch of new leather, brown spices, a dollop of fresh oregano and a topnote of distant bonfire. On the palate the wine is bright, full-bodied, focused and chewy, with a good core of fruit, excellent soil transparency and grip, fine balance and a long, complex and very promising finish. This is a puppy and it will need plenty of bottle age before it blossoms and starts to drink with generosity. But, once it is ready to go, it will be an outstanding bottle.