The estate’s Riserva is only produced in years of incomparable greatness, or when there is a particularly compelling story to tell. The previous vintage, 2017, fell into the latter category, while 2019, conversely, celebrates an unequivocally superlative year. It leads with a heady mixture of clove, vanillin and coriander before distinct mineral notes take hold. The palate is still somewhat muddled after long ageing in Slavonian oak casks, though properly youthful. Taut yet concentrated with thrilling tension, it vibrates with frisky acidity. Well extracted clayey tannins demand at least a couple of years in the cellar. (MM)