Note: from 3 separate parcels that aggregate .33 ha. A similarly exotic if slightly riper and more complex nose introduces rich, dense and overtly muscular flavors that possess an abundance of palate coating dry extract on the balanced finish that is supported by a very attractive sense of underlying tension. I quite like this as it's generous yet more refined than it usually is though the refinement notwithstanding, note well that this will require at least a decade to reach its full apogee.*Burghound Don't Miss!*

The 2014 Criots-Bâtard-Montrachet Grand Cru needed a little more encouragement from the glass compared to its Chassagne label-mates, but it's worth persevering as it unveils subtle white peach and fresh pear scents interlaced with minerals that are very come-hither. The palate is more giving with a bead of acidity piercing the energetic citrus fruit and then it fans out towards the second half with orange rind and hints of peach. Very harmonious and magically long, this is a great Criots-Bâtard-Montrachet. Fontaine-Gagnard is a Chassagne domaine that has really upped the ante in recent vintages, and has provoked discussion among Burgundy cognoscenti who noticed a shift in style to ever more precise and complex expressions of respective terroirs. A large part has been due to the change in generations. Since Celine Fontaine has taken the reins, there has been a drive towards quality that is clearly tangible in the wines. Moreover, she always comes across as an intelligent, thoughtful, candid and passionate winemaker, so much so that I could quite easily sit and chat with her all day. She’s a winemaker that seems to be more “switched on” than others, considering not only the quality of her wines but also their distribution and perception beyond the confines of Burgundy. And Celine has a lot in her hands, literally as well as figuratively, what with one baby delivered and another one on the way.(NM)