The 1997 Gaja Sperss is another wine that is showing beautifully, although this bottle isn’t as profound as others have been. Layers of dark, mineral-inflected Serralunga fruit flow across the palate as the 1997 struts its stuff. (AG)

Dark ruby. Loads of blackberry, vanilla and milk chocolate on the nose. Turns to licorice and flowers. Full-bodied, with a subtle tannin structure and fresh and focused fruit. Balanced and pretty wine. Just starting to open. *#25 Top 100 Wines of 2001* (JS)

Although Sperss today is bottled as a Barolo, from 1996 until 2001, Gaja included around 8% of Barbera in the wine and bottled it as Langhe rosso. This was a tip of the hat to the traditional bottlings of the region before the introduction of the Barolo and Barbaresco DOCs in the 1960s. 1997 was a very warm vintage in the Langhe, with an early harvest of excellent quality but reduced yields. This vintage character is apparent in the wine, with scents of warm earth, dried fruits and currants. Cool acidity and slightly angular tannins frame dusty, juicy red and black fruits. It's displaying some mulchy notes, with wood and tobacco emerging on a slightly drying finish. (JB)