Wonderfully scented aromas of currant, smoked meat, dark chocolate and truffle. Lush, seamless and rich, with a near-perfect sugar/acid balance and great early appeal. The gamey note carries through in the mouth. A superb, very suave '98, showing well today. The Costa Russi has been more consistent beginning in '98, Gaja told me. 'It's probably due to the drier weather and more sun; the vineyard is adapting itself to our new, more California-like climate.' (ST)

The Costa Russi ’98 has a clear ruby core with youthful rim. This is reticent at first, gradually unfurling to reveal mulberry, tobacco, a touch of smoke. It certainly needs a little more time in the decanter. The palate is medium-bodied, sharp acidity on the entry, opening up with firm, chalky tannins, Morello cherry, some irony components and a touch of tobacco leaves. (NM)