2024 Domaine Marc Colin St-Aubin 1er Cru "En Remilly"

Rising from the glass with notes of pear, spring flowers, lemon oil and freshly baked bread, the 2024 Saint-Aubin 1er Cru En Remilly is medium- to full-bodied, fleshy and textural, with fine concentration, bright acidity and a chalky finish. This cuvée originates from five parcels within the same lieu-dit, mingling slightly different locations. In 2024, Damien Colin began the harvest relatively late, on September 14, and it concluded on September 22. While he lost some 5% to 10% of the crop to frost that affected vineyards in Saint-Aubin, the principal cause of low yields—as for many growers—was intense mildew pressure throughout the season. Average yields stood at around 35 hectoliters per hectare for the whites, with lower-than-average pH levels and wines reaching, for the most part, between 11% and 11.5% potential alcohol at harvest. Nevertheless, he chose not to chaptalize, in pursuit of greater freshness. Despite these challenges, the wines largely belie the difficulties of the year. Pure and incisive, they are immediately legible, with each appellation clearly articulated by site and by its de facto hierarchy. From a stylistic standpoint, they inhabit a middle ground between 2011 and 2014.(WK)

A vaguely exotic nose consists of citrus confit with notes of both lemon and orange peel that add breadth to the slightly riper aromas of white peach and spice. The mouthfeel of the delicious and energetic flavors is sleeker still if perhaps not quite as concentrated with good drive and minerality on the balanced, clean and nicely dry finale. This too could use better depth but that should again simply be a matter of exercising some patience.