Taittinger's Comtes de Champagne shines in 2014. It's a vintage that offered crisp yet open and beautifully defined wines from the grand cru Chardonnays of the Côte des Blancs. This is still primary and youthful, its zesty roasted grapefruit, sweet clementine and pineapple flavours meet juicy white peach and gentle ageing flavours of demerara sugar and toasted brioche. It's a little less intense and dynamic than 2013 but equally fine in its restrained, racy energy. With even a short time on cork the classic toasty Comtes richness will start to emerge. (TH)

Occupying a stylistic middle ground between the incisiveness of the 2013 and the fleshier textures of the 2012, Taittinger’s 2014 Blanc de Blancs Comtes de Champagne—disgorged in July 2024 with a dosage of nine grams per liter—has turned out beautifully. It offers aromas of orange peel, peach, pear and brioche mingled with hazelnut and burnt buttered toast. On the palate, it is full-bodied, ample and textural, with a layered yet crisp core of fruit, considerable tension and a long, chalky finish. Harmonious and racy-fresh though it is, this is a marginally richer rendition than the 2013 tasted alongside it, yet both promise excellent longevity and will make for fascinating comparative tastings in the years to come. (KK)

A textbook blanc de blancs Champagne, with a rich waft of toasted hazelnut on the nose, plus a voluptuous range of poached apricot, quince paste, tangerine peel and brioche notes that expand on the finely detailed mousse. Focused by well-cut acidity, this is long and mouthwatering, with fragrant spice, mineral and floral accents on the finish. (AN)