The 1989 Cuvee du Papet offers up huge aromas of Provencal herbs, roasted nuts, and sweet, jammy, exotic fruits. In the mouth its decadence and opulence must be tasted to be believed. This unctuous, wonderfully rich wine makes for splendid drinking at present, but it promises to be even better with bottle age. It is an astonishing, old-style, traditionally made Chateauneuf du Pape, the likes of which are rarely seen in today's high-tech world where wines are so often made within strictly formulated parameters. (RP)