I would not have thought it possible, but the 1985 Dom Pérignon Oenothèque Rosé (magnum) is even more striking than the original release. Here the extended time on the cork and magnum format seem to confer an extra degree of crystalline purity and nuance. There is plenty of depth and power, but accompanied by a sense of weightlessness that is impossible to miss. When all is said and done, the two 1985s aren’t that different from each other. Disgorged 2008. (AG)