High-toned and firm with resounding minerality, this has more savory notes than most Puligny bottlings, with most of their expected, floraled finesse. Still, there are ample, charismatic apple fruits as well as the resounding minerality typical of Puligny. A smaller harvest than usual here, be on the lookout for these bottles.

The 2023 Puligny-Montrachet 1er Cru Clos de la Garenne (Duc de Magenta) is medium to full-bodied, satiny and saline, with more cut and energy than the Maison bottling. Winemaker Frédéric Barnier and his team have once again delivered a strong portfolio chez Jadot. Barnier stressed the importance of sorting and of vigilance during élevage, in particular where acid rot made an appearance, and he didn't hesitate to perform a saignée for cuvées where yields where high. As I've written before, in the cellar, foudres and 500-liter barrels now complement classic 228-liter pièces, a further evolution adapting to warmer, riper vintages. What's more, barrels are now used four rather than three times, meaning the percentage of new oak overall has fallen. A cold room also helps chill down any fruit that's too warm when it enters the winery, something especially important during the warm 2023 harvest. This vintage also marks the third vintage of organic conversion for the Domaine Louis Jadot and the Domaine Gagey.(WK)

The 2023 Puligny-Montrachet Clos de la Garenne 1er Cru contains just a soupçon more exoticism on the nose, with apricot and passion fruit joining citrus peel aromas. A little Chassagne-like in style, this has a well-balanced palate with a slightly honeyed entry, but it is slightly lower pH than the La Garenne, giving it more tension and bite on the finish. Drink over the next 12 to 15 years.(NM)