This starts with appealing savoriness—it's not just fruit-forward character, despite its youth. Sea salt and pastry crust lead the palate. Dense and intense with crystalline focus, pronounced tension and resounding length, this is poised to age extremely well thanks to its structural amplitude.

The 2023 Meursault 1er Cru Les Perrières (Domaine Louis Jadot) is terrific, unfurling in the glass with aromas of crisp orchard fruit, white flowers, toasted nuts and iodine. Medium to full-bodied, racy and layered, it's chiseled and mineral, with bright acids and a saline finish. Winemaker Frédéric Barnier and his team have once again delivered a strong portfolio chez Jadot. Barnier stressed the importance of sorting and of vigilance during élevage, in particular where acid rot made an appearance, and he didn't hesitate to perform a saignée for cuvées where yields where high. As I've written before, in the cellar, foudres and 500-liter barrels now complement classic 228-liter pièces, a further evolution adapting to warmer, riper vintages. What's more, barrels are now used four rather than three times, meaning the percentage of new oak overall has fallen. A cold room also helps chill down any fruit that's too warm when it enters the winery, something especially important during the warm 2023 harvest. This vintage also marks the third vintage of organic conversion for the Domaine Louis Jadot and the Domaine Gagey.(WK)

This also displays a touch of quinine character on the nose of wet stone, acacia, carnation, spice and orange peel. The exceptionally rich and quite generously proportioned medium-bodied flavors are almost lush on the mid-palate though they quickly tighten up on the mineral-suffused, long and lightly austere finale. This is somewhat atypical for a classic Perrières in that it too could be reasonably approached after only 5-ish years.