Although it is sometimes overlooked, the Clos de la Roche from Rousseau is a superb wine. Tasted with Cyrielle from barrel, it was initially a bit reduced and slightly closed, but it opens up with ripe plum and black cherry fruit on the palate underscored by a firm, earthy minerality. The texture is wonderfully dense and long. With nearly 1.5 hectares, Rousseau is the third-largest proprietor here, after Ponsot and Dujac. They have almost a hectare in Fremières and almost a half-hectare in the original Clos de la Roche. The grapes are destemmed and gently fermented before ageing in used casks. (Drink between 2030-2065) (CC)

This starts with a feral, sweaty nose entwined with black plum skins, clove and cola. Thoroughly exotic, the palate is equally expressive and adds on a thick layer of savory minerality. Dusty tannins and racy acidity work dutifully to give the chunky core good definition. The long finish is guided by a delicate dryness.

There is just enough wood present to mention framing the spicy aromas of poached plum, warm earth and an array of floral nuances, especially violet and lilac. The gorgeously textured and punchy middleweight plus flavors also brim with dry extract on the firm, serious, youthfully austere and hugely long finale. This is potentially terrific with the development potential to match. (AM)