A blend of three vineyards on the Puligny side of the appellation, the 2023 Chassagne-Montrachet Vieilles Vignes has a slightly reductive bouquet that makes it difficult to read at the moment. The palate is well balanced with a tangy orange rind-tinged opening and lovely weight in the mouth, as lilting clementine and apricot notes mix with citrus peel toward the harmonious finish. This will be delicious.(NM)

Aromas of pear, orange zest, beeswax and nutmeg introduce the 2023 Chassagne-Montrachet Vieilles Vignes, a medium to full-bodied, satiny and layered wine that's ample and fleshy, with a gourmand, textural profile that will offer a broad drinking window. Pierre-Yves Colin has delivered another successful 2023 vintage, and almost everything I tasted remained un-racked on the lees, undergoing a long élevage in pursuit of more tension and complexity. As ever, picking tends to be on the early side with a view to retaining freshness. As readers may know, Colin's bigger cuvées are crushed and see four-hour press cycles, whereas smaller cuvées aren't crushed but see even longer press cycles lasting five or more hours. Vinification and maturation in barrel, with a heavy emphasis on larger-format barrels, follow. As I've written before, since moving to his new, much colder cellars in Chassagne-Montrachet's "zone artisanale," he finds his wines retain significantly more free sulfur dioxide for any given addition, so a touch less is being used.(WK)