2023 Pierre-Yves Colin-Morey St-Aubin 1er Cru "En Remilly"

The 2023 Saint-Aubin En Remilly 1er Cru offers a mixture of white and yellow fruit on the nose, very well defined and mineral-driven as a subtle smokiness emerges with time. The palate is very harmonious and well balanced with great concentration, and hints of tropical fruit toward a finish that fans out gloriously. Another superb Saint-Aubin from PYCM.(NM)

The 2023 Saint-Aubin 1er Cru En Remilly reveals aromas of pear, hazelnuts and white flowers, followed by a medium to full-bodied, satiny and seamless palate with a rich core of fruit, lively acids and a charming, open-knit profile. Pierre-Yves Colin has delivered another successful 2023 vintage, and almost everything I tasted remained un-racked on the lees, undergoing a long élevage in pursuit of more tension and complexity. As ever, picking tends to be on the early side with a view to retaining freshness. As readers may know, Colin's bigger cuvées are crushed and see four-hour press cycles, whereas smaller cuvées aren't crushed but see even longer press cycles lasting five or more hours. Vinification and maturation in barrel, with a heavy emphasis on larger-format barrels, follow. As I've written before, since moving to his new, much colder cellars in Chassagne-Montrachet's "zone artisanale," he finds his wines retain significantly more free sulfur dioxide for any given addition, so a touch less is being used.(WK)