The 2023 Chassagne-Montrachet 1er Cru Les Chenevottes has also turned out beautifully, offering up a gently reductive bouquet of crisp orchard fruit, toasted almonds, white flowers and smoke. Medium to full-bodied, satiny and seamless, it's racy and pure, with a layered, complete profile. Pierre-Yves Colin has delivered another successful 2023 vintage, and almost everything I tasted remained un-racked on the lees, undergoing a long élevage in pursuit of more tension and complexity. As ever, picking tends to be on the early side with a view to retaining freshness. As readers may know, Colin's bigger cuvées are crushed and see four-hour press cycles, whereas smaller cuvées aren't crushed but see even longer press cycles lasting five or more hours. Vinification and maturation in barrel, with a heavy emphasis on larger-format barrels, follow. As I've written before, since moving to his new, much colder cellars in Chassagne-Montrachet's "zone artisanale," he finds his wines retain significantly more free sulfur dioxide for any given addition, so a touch less is being used.(WK)

Exuberantly aromatic, sweet peach, nectarine, grapefruit peel and flowers zoom from the glass. Blaring with freshness and minerality, this is already a treat.

Note: 85% from Chenevottes proper and the balance from Les Bondues. Once again there is a pronounced floral character to the aromas of citrus confit and poached pear. There is almost painful intensity to the super-sleek, focused and chiseled flavors that terminate and linear and overtly austere finale that is presently fairly lean. My projected range assumes that this will progressively flesh out but if your preference is for younger whites, this might be too lean for some palates.