It is funny, but I am always struck in the cellars tasting a new vintage of the Mugnerets’ Clos Vougeot of just how Musigny-like this wine really is on both the nose and palate. However, as the wines ages, it generally moves away from these similarities and settles into one of the finest examples of this grand cru. The 2023 is going to be another outstanding example, as it offers up a deep and complex nose of plums, black cherries, gamebird, woodsmoke, a very complex base of soil tones, raw cocoa, violets and spicy new oak. On the palate the wine is pure, precise and full-bodied, with a deep and sappy core, a very suave structural chassis, ripe tannins, fine balance and a long, complex and impressive finish. Patience is the only thing needed here.

A fine ruby crimson colour. The nose shows a refined red berry fruit, this being a little lighter in alcohol. Thus less weight on the palate but a very pleasing refinement, very nicely judged, avoiding the muscularity of the appellation, with a fine long finish.

The 2023 Clos Vougeot Grand Cru is more reticent, unwinding in the glass with aromas of dark berries, pencil shavings, sweet spices and toasted vanilla pod. Full-bodied, ample and layered, it's rich and textural, with a chassis of ripe tannin and structuring new oak. (WK)