Although this has great freshness, candied-lemon and complex dried herb character, it also has a rich and waxy side, plus a touch of vanilla. Rich and powerful with a lot more structure than most Pessac-Léognan whites. It also has wonderful tension and drive that’s rooted in the vibrant acidity, but supported by the mineral and lemon-zest notes. A blend of 62.7 per cent sauvignon blanc and 37.3 per cent semillon. Better from 2021.

Rising vertically through the palate, it has lift, juiciness, savouriness, and a delicacy that matches the intensity of flavour beat for beat. There is richness and weight through the mid-palate, with almond touches, and I love the mouth-watering salinity on the finish, it’s just so moreish. Unusually there is a majority Sauvignon Blanc in 2016 as there were very high yields in the Sémillon that meant a touch of dilution, plus the heat of the summer meant they were grateful for the fresh kick of Sauvignon Blanc. (JA)

The 2016 La Mission Haut-Brion Blanc is ample, creamy and quite expressive, even in the early going. Quite unusually, the 2016 is the first Blanc here to be made with a majority of Sauvignon Blanc, as the winemaking team led by Deputy managing director Jean-Philippe Delmas did not feel the Sémillon was strong enough. In this tasting, the Blanc gives the impression it will drink well relatively early, which is my preference as well. (AG)