Red berry, hay, lavender and dried botanical herb slowly appear on the beautiful 2020 Barolo Pira from Roagna along with a whiff of graphite. Showing extreme class and finesse, the palate features cranberry, tart red cherry, bitter orange, star anise and ground clove before closing on a salty mineral note. Lithe, glossy tannins provide polished support. (KO)

The 2020 Barolo Pira is a powerful, tightly wound young Barolo. Dried herbs, incense, licorice, tobacco and crushed autumn leaves add layers of nuance. This starts open with a bit of coaxing, suggesting a few years in bottle or a good bit air will do the trick. The tannins are insistent, but also polished. (AG)