The St-Véran Premier Jus from Jean-Marie Guffens is delightful, with a blast of reduction on the initial attack, followed by nectarine and apricot fruit aromas and hints of acacia and hazelnut. The texture is luxurious and silky, but not as tightly wound as the wines from Pouilly-Fuissé. The grapes are from two parcels, north-facing Les Carettes and Les Combes, planted in clay soils both in Davayé. Only the best juice off the press is used, and it is fermented in cask (25% new). Cellar this three to five years before opening and drink over the next decade.(CC)

The 2023 Saint-Véran Premiers Jus comprises only free-run juice. This has another Coche-like reduction on the nose that will appeal to those who appreciate that style. The palate is well balanced with a dense, grippy opening and lovely texture. It's delicately spiced, fanning out with gusto on the finish. This Saint-Véran has bags of potential—one for the patient among you.(NM)