Céline said this had plenty of malic, and even after malolactic fermentation, this remains punchy with firm, high-voltage acidity. There is plenty of beautifully ripe, lusty fruit to absorb the vibrant flavors of star fruit, loquat, Seckel pear, wet stones and warm hay. The sustained, creamy finish weaves in light marine influences. Wait at least seven to eight years before uncorking this beauty.

Note: from 3 separate parcels of vines that are now 100 years of age that aggregate .33 ha. The natural exoticism of Criots is on display with notes of white and yellow peach, citrus confit, ginger and a hint of honey. The succulent, even opulent, larger-bodied flavors brim with sappy dry extract that imparts an almost chewy texture to the mid-palate while buffering the very firm acid spine on the powerful, compact and strikingly long finale. This isn't the densest wine in the range but I very much like the balance and development potential.