An alluring, detailed aroma that is reserved and layered rather than hugely outgoing at present. There’s some maturity though, a measured weight of light apricot, ripe pear and pale strawberry fruit. Delicacy is the main theme, with touches of blossom, white peach, and only a quiet praline and caramelised apple richness. Less austere than the 2008, more focused than the 2012 and already quietly harmonious, this superb 2013 closes with chalkiness and verve. This could well prove the most finely tuned of the recent Charles Heidsieck vintage releases. 57% Pinot Noir, 43% Chardonnay with nine years on lees. (TH)

Disgorged in January of 2023, the 2013 Champagne Millésime Brut was the last vintage from the cellar master for Heidsieck prior to Cyril Brun. The 2013 Champagne Millésime Brut is a bright straw yellow color and is based on the crus of Les Mesnil, Avize, Averney, and Aÿ. It’s fresh with aromas of wet stones, fresh quince, and fresh jasmine flowers. It has a chalky and focused texture, with ripeness to balance it out, and a long, graceful finish. At this stage, it feels more forward with 57% Pinot Noir and the rest Chardonnay. A more mineral-tinged expression, it has a lot of charm and the promise of longevity over the coming two decades. Drink 2024-2044. It will be interesting to see how the Pinot shows itself over time. 8 grams per liter dosage. (AF)

A very striking nose with Reine Claude plums, old-fashioned apple varieties and some Nordic herbs. Structured and crisp with a very firm core, the finish driving and full of energy. Rich long finish with a chalky core. 60% pinot noir and 40% chardonnay, the make up of the blend very unconventional for this house. Drink or hold.