While the Fèvre parcels face south, their surfaces are steep and their soils are poor—meaning the roots quickly dig into Kimmeridgian limestone. The result is a fascinating juxtaposition of fruit amplitude and savory restraint. Star fruit and cherimoya meet sea salt and cheese rind. The mid-palate has elevated intensity and a hint of viscosity this year. This is definitely one to set aside for at least five to six years, hopefully longer.

The 2024 Chablis Vaudésir Grand Cru was reduced to just three barrels this year (from 1.2-hectares!) and was the first to be picked. It has a mineral-driven bouquet that is nuanced, focused and very classy. The palate is fresh on the entry, with admirable tension. This builds gently in the mouth, with a dab of lemongrass and white pepper leading to a concentrated finish that is impressive for the vintage. The 2024 is recommended.(NM)

Note: from two separate parcels of vines, the larger of which is in the heart of the "amphitheater" from which the finest examples of Vaudésir originate; from yields of only 4 hl/ha in 2024. A perfumed, cool, pure and elegant nose displays vaguely exotic notes of white peach, passion fruit, honeysuckle and quinine, all of which is trimmed in an appealing touch of mineral reduction. The ultra-dense, indeed almost thick, flavors are borderline aggressively stony, which adds a sense of lift to the bitter citrus-inflected finish that, somewhat curiously, falls off somewhat relative to the best in the range. It's possible that it was 'just one of those days' and it will show better once in bottle as the characteristics of the 2024 vintage should play to the innate strengths of Vaudésir.