Until now, the Sassetti family has only produced a Riserva bottling in years rated five stars by the consorzio. As this evaluation system has been discontinued from the 2000 vintage, the future direction of Pertimali’s Riserva is yet unknown. A heady mix of spice, leather, roasted coffee and grilled herbs rises from the glass. These savoury elements bleed into the wild red berry core, making for a multifaceted mouthful. The tannins are upfront without being aggressive, intricately textured and lend a chewy bite. Racy acidity surges in equal measure, propelling a blood orange explosion for the finale. (MM)

Effusive aromas and flavors of mint and eucalyptus join forces with black cherry, black currant, violet, iron and tobacco. There are ample tannins, and overall this red is broad and rangy yet comes together nicely on the lingering, expansive aftertaste. Distinctive and commanding. Best from 2028 through 2045. 600 cases made, 280 cases imported. (BS)