There's a radiance to this wine that reflects its unique, ultra-cool-climate region. A gravelly, stony mineral note appears at first sniff, but give it some aeration in glass and it fleshes out with plump red berries, white pepper and potpourri. Tart cherry acidity adds tang to the midweight palate. It's tightened up by herby, distinctively textured tannins that conjure the sensation of licking gravel. The red fruit wins out, though, lingering on the finish. (CP)