Dense in color with black reflections, this smells of licorice pastille, fig and cassis pâte de fruit, and damp forest floor. Grippy tannins tame the robust fruit core as zingy acidity tightens and lengthens the finish. A significant portion of these 20-year-old vines planted by Charles' grandfather on 161-49B were replanted two years ago.

Aromas of plums, cassis, orange zest and spices introduce the 2023 Nuits-Saint-Georges 1er Cru Les Murgers, a medium to full-bodied, lively and concentrated wine that's penetrating and intense. Due to rootstock problems, the younger vines that informed this cuvée are being replanted, so in 2023 this is an all old-vine cuvée. This is another strong set of wines from Charles Van Canneyt—but that won't surprise readers familiar with this estate's consistent excellence. Van Canneyt has had the reins here for over a decade now, and his approach has crystalized: the predominantly destemmed fruit, retained intact, is fermented in cement tanks for a classical maceration of two to three weeks. Élevage is in barrels now predominantly sourced from Cavin, with Cadus in a supporting role, and lasts fully 18 months in the domaine's cold cellar, with the exception of the Bourgogne Rouge, which is bottled before harvest. These uncomplicated methods, combined with an enviable palette of appellations planted with notably old vines, produce elegant, charming wines with impressive substance and aging potential. I've been buying them for my own cellar since my student days, so this is an address I warmly recommend.(WK)

The 2023 Nuits Saint-Georges Les Murgers 1er Cru comes from just one-third of the original parcel as the rest were pulled up. This comes solely from the old 80-year-old vines. It has a cohesive bouquet with a mixture of red and black fruit and touches of slate. The palate is medium-bodied with crunchy black fruit tones laced with light briny elements toward the finish. This has a beguiling sense of harmony and great persistence.(NM)