2015 Bodegas Ontañon Reserva Rioja

A savory red, leading with smoke and grilled herb notes before revealing flavors of plumped cherry and baked plum. Well-balanced, with supple tannins and fragrant accents of sassafras root, cocoa powder and macchia emerging on the finish. Tempranillo and Graciano. (AN)

Savory, woodsy and very delicious, this is a classic textbook example of a traditional Reserva Rioja. In recent years, there’s been a growing divide between the traditionalists and the modernists in this storied region. The split often lies within the decision to participate in the aging classification of Rioja, with the appellation required a minimum amount of time in oak barrels followed by additional time in bottle (in the case of Reserva, three years total). While many wineries are choosing to abandon this system of aging, in favor of labelling as generic Rioja, just as many are steadfastly dedicated to the classic manner of aging Rioja. This isn’t to say that one is better than the other – rather, there’s never been more choice and stylistic diversity in the region! The 2015 Ontañón Reserva Rioja is a wonderful option to explore the traditional style, at a very attractive price for a wine almost a decade old. Lovely vanilla and cocoa nib aromas surround earthy fallen leaves and dried red currant. Firmly medium-bodied, with smooth, supple tannins and bright, uplifting acidity, this wine is aged in both American and French oak barrels for two years, followed by several more in bottle, resulting in excellent balance and integration of flavors. It’s also still incredibly youthful for its age, and from an excellent vintage in Rioja, is a wine to stock up on.