Savory, woodsy and very delicious, this is a classic textbook example of a traditional Reserva Rioja. In recent years, there’s been a growing divide between the traditionalists and the modernists in this storied region. The split often lies within the decision to participate in the aging classification of Rioja, with the appellation required a minimum amount of time in oak barrels followed by additional time in bottle (in the case of Reserva, three years total). While many wineries are choosing to abandon this system of aging, in favor of labelling as generic Rioja, just as many are steadfastly dedicated to the classic manner of aging Rioja. This isn’t to say that one is better than the other – rather, there’s never been more choice and stylistic diversity in the region! The 2015 Ontañón Reserva Rioja is a wonderful option to explore the traditional style, at a very attractive price for a wine almost a decade old. Lovely vanilla and cocoa nib aromas surround earthy fallen leaves and dried red currant. Firmly medium-bodied, with smooth, supple tannins and bright, uplifting acidity, this wine is aged in both American and French oak barrels for two years, followed by several more in bottle, resulting in excellent balance and integration of flavors. It’s also still incredibly youthful for its age, and from an excellent vintage in Rioja, is a wine to stock up on.

Showing clear maturity, this Reserva opens with aromas of dried red fruit, leather, and pronounced oak influence. The palate is structured and savory, with notes of dried cherry, spice, and integrated tannins supported by firm oak presence. The texture is smooth and developed, with secondary complexity emerging alongside lingering oak and earthy undertones. A classic aged Rioja emphasizing structure, oak character, and traditional Reserva depth.

This wine just smells old school in all the best of ways. While modern Rioja is great and has its place, there's just times you want to buy something that's a little more traditional. This has the oak, the touch of dill, and at least to me a little hint of menthol in the background. There's also a little touch of some actually inviting barnyard that feels integrated and super natural in a wine like this, just adding a little more rusticity. The fruit is dark and fairly inky and the longer I hold my nose in the glass the more it stands out and the other notes fall back a little bit. The palate is mid-plus in body, and really doesn't show all of its age it's still surprisingly fresh with pretty and slightly chewy fruit with moderate tannins and a super long and lingering finish that's a combination of stewed fruit and cigar box. This is great and for the price is such a simple answer to a common week day question: Which bottle are we going to open? What's our weekly driver? If you like Spanish wine, here you go, a great solution to your problems.