This has a very different expression to other Sassicaia wines, which all stand as testament to their vintage and location; they evolve and give a specific impression of passing time. The tannins are still biting, baring their teeth almost, this many years on. The grip is incredible. Here you start to understand why young wines can show clever winemaking, yet it is only with older vintages where you truly understand the effect of terroir and the confidence it gives a wine as it ages. It has the signatures of a leather saddle, along with a floral-edged bowl of autumnal fruits. It holds supreme elegance and real structure. This will proceed at its own pace, and you are welcome to come along for the ride. (JA)