The 2014 Viña Tondonia Blanco Reserva has a bright golden color, almost fluorescent, a complex and nuanced nose reminiscent of the 2017 Viña Gravonia that I tasted next to it, toasty, smoky and spicy, with mushroom and earth, pollen and herbal tea notes, reminiscent of the aromas in their old caves. 2014 was not an easy vintage, and some wines were diluted because of the abundant rains before or during the harvest. This is the usual blend of Viura with 10% Malvasía Riojana from vines averaging 63 years of age on white soils with abundant rocks. It fermented in ancient oak vats with indigenous yeasts and matured for six years, probably more, in well-seasoned, neutral American oak barrels in their caves, which have a big effect on the wines (the longer the time in them, the longer the effect). It has 12.5% alcohol, a pH of 3.3 and 6.6 grams of acidity. It fills your mouth with pungent flavors, despite being medium-bodied and having an ethereal quality about it, and it's very long and tasty and finishes almost salty, with an umami feeling, dry and chalky. Delicious, clean and still young, it should age effortlessly. (LG)

The 2014 Blanco Riserva Viña Tondonia is a blend of 90% Viura and 10% Malvasía from Haro, Rioja. Aged at least six years in foudres and two in the bottle, it has a golden hue with aromas of lemon peel, herbs, light resin and nutty hints over subtly integrated oak. Delicate and compact, with a fine chalkiness and a long, saline finish, this is a white that seamlessly marries supple texture and electric acidity. (JH)