In this context, the 1990 Barolo Riserva Monfortino is almost too much. While the 1990 Cascina Francia delivers tons of pleasure, the 1990 Monfortino is still years away from offering its finest drinking. Still, this breathtaking Barolo is a pleasure to drink for its round fruit and long, powerful finish. It is exceptional in every way. Here the fruit is quite a bit darker in tonality than the Cascina Francia, with mesmerizing layers of mocha, leather, licorice and tobacco that develop in the glass and add further complexity. This is a marvelous effort from Conterno, but it will require the patience of a saint. Anticipated maturity: 2020-2050. (AG)