Change is afoot in Rioja. Increasingly, producers are backing away from extraction, new oak and extended aging, instead favoring a lighter hand in the winery that highlights vineyard-specific terroir. The 2019 Vinos del Atlántico “Calma” Crianza Rioja is a compelling example of this exciting stylistic shift. Made from 100% old vine Tempranillo sourced from a single, high-elevation vineyard in the village of Hormilla in Rioja Alta, the wine is fermented in stainless steel, with the inclusion of 15% whole clusters to enhance the fresh and youthful red fruit notes. Bursting with red plum and cherry, this vibrant Rioja is supported by subtle and well-integrated tobacco, dried oregano and woodsmoke. The wine is matured in used French and American oak barrels, which has helped to soften the tannins and round out the acidity. The result is a gorgeous, medium-bodied wine that perfectly balances still-youthful fruit and intriguing savory notes in the background – a wine that highlights the intensity and complexity of old vine Tempranillo, not new oak. Some might refer to this style of Rioja as “modern", but quite the opposite is true. This is a Rioja that marks a return to the oldest days of the region, where small family-owned parcels were fermented individually, with little to no overt oak. A fresh expression of a traditional style, this elegant Rioja clearly speaks to the place it comes from.

One of my very favorite Rioja's in the store has always been Vina Ardanza. I pretty much just automatically buy it. So, it was a pleasure to taste this new Atlantico Calma Crianza Rioja because it reminds me, to a certain extent, of the Vina Ardanza. They both have that wonderful cedar/dill/rye bread thing going on. The Calma also has bright and medium-dark red fruits with savory spice and bright minerals. It is beautifully balanced and fills my craving for Rioja that combine the old and new schools. It's just delicious!

A luminous medium ruby with a faint garnet edge. The nose open with red cherry and wild strawberry, layered with vanilla, cedar, and a subtle hint of dill. Medium bodied and beautifully balanced, with bright acidity lifting notes of cranberry, plum, and cherry skin. polished tannins frame the wine while touches of tobacco and soft spice add depth. Elegant, retrained, and quietly confident— a wine that delivers structure without excess.