Pillot produces one of the village's finest red wines, lavishing his old vines in this climat with labor-intensive "tressage" (whereby the vines' apical shoots are never cut), and his 2023 Chassagne-Montrachet 1er Cru Clos Saint-Jean Rouge is a great success. Bursting with aromas of raspberries, orange zest, exotic spices and petals, it's medium to full-bodied, fleshy and lively, with a deep core of fruit and fine structuring tannins. The 2023 vintage is another success for Thierry Pillot, delivering fleshy but vibrant whites that will offer a broad drinking window. As I've reiterated several times, Pillot is one of a handful of exciting producers who won Chassagne-Montrachet the title of the Côte de Beaune's most dynamic white-wine-producing village today, and as he enters his early 40s, he's reflecting on the next step. His viticulture is already innovative, with canopies trimmed high and, in some cases, managed with "tressage." But the construction of a new winery building below the village will make space for dry goods and bottled wine, allowing him to extend élevages longer in his historic cellars in the heart of Chassagne-Montrachet.(WK)

The 2023 Chassagne-Montrachet Clos Saint-Jean 1er Cru (Rouge) has a lovely bouquet of redcurrant and cranberry scents, and a little more complexity than the Vieilles Vignes. The palate is medium-bodied with dense tannins and fine grip, and the 70% whole cluster imparts a light pepperiness on the finish. Very fine. (NM)

Here too the nose is definitely ripe with a slightly more elegant, and more floral-suffused, array of red and dark cherry, plum and hint of newly turned earth. The more refined, though not especially dense, flavors possess a plush mid-palate mouthfeel while displaying reasonably good length on the lightly stony and youthfully austere finale that is firm enough to repay a few years of cellaring.