Pale lemon and lime. Slightly less tight, there being more topsoil in Charmois, slightly more white fruit than Pitangeret, with a lighter approach on the palate, fine-boned and with very good persistence. Love the little white fruits. Dainty, dancing stuff. Drink from 2027-2030. Tasted Nov 2024.

The 2023 Saint-Aubin 1er Cru Les Charmois is similarly charming and demonstrative, bursting with aromas of pear and peach mingled with hints of nutmeg and white flowers. Medium to full-bodied, satiny and sensual, it will offer a broad drinking window. The 2023 vintage is another success for Thierry Pillot, delivering fleshy but vibrant whites that will offer a broad drinking window. As I've reiterated several times, Pillot is one of a handful of exciting producers who won Chassagne-Montrachet the title of the Côte de Beaune's most dynamic white-wine-producing village today, and as he enters his early 40s, he's reflecting on the next step. His viticulture is already innovative, with canopies trimmed high and, in some cases, managed with "tressage." But the construction of a new winery building below the village will make space for dry goods and bottled wine, allowing him to extend élevages longer in his historic cellars in the heart of Chassagne-Montrachet.(WK)

Here too there is a smoky component on the more floral-suffused nose of white-fleshed fruit and discreet spice wisps. The beautifully textured flavors are not particularly dense but I very much like balance on the very dry, balanced and sneaky long finish. This too will need at least a few years of patience.