The Ashbourne 2022 Hemel-En-Aarde Valley Pinotage offers raspberry, red cherry and a hint of that black olive or scorched earth that you often get with this grape. Pinotage has thick skins, and you also get bitter rose petal. Some liken it to a cross between Nebbiolo (thanks to the tannins) and a Beaujolais. "Anyone who says Pinot Noir is hard to make obviously hasn't made Pinotage," says winemaker Emul Ross. Farming is easy but the grape is difficult to vinify, with risks of volatile acidity and Brettanomyces (high sugar can contribute to bacterial growth). Made close to the ocean, this Pinotage shows a pretty mineral theme. Emul Ross suggests serving it at a barracuda barbecue, and I can't resist but submit that suggestion to your attention. (ML)

The 2022 Pinotage, grown on the estate's clayey soils, matured for 14 months in 400-liter barrels and 2,000-liter foudres. It has clean black plum and briar scents on the nose, with just a touch of melted tar coming through. The palate is medium-bodied with sapid black fruit and fine-boned tannins, very well balanced with a touch of black olive on the finish. This is excellent—one of the best I've tasted. (NM)