I very much like the 1988 Bartolo Mascarello Barolo, but this is one of the most black fruity vintages of his wine that I have ever tasted, as I usually find the Mascarello wines to be quite red fruity in character at this stage of their evolutions. However, this is just an observation about the 1988, not a criticism, as this wine has all of the breed and complexity one has come to expect from the wines that Signor Mascarello produced over his long career. The bouquet is a beautiful and maturing mélange of black cherries, dark berries, dried roses, sous bois, a touch of curry, gentle notes of venison, road tar and even a bit of coffee bean in the upper register. On the palate the wine is deep, full-bodied, pure and showing tons of porcini (which was not all that apparent on the nose!), with a lovely core, beautiful focus and balance, melting tannins and very fine length and grip on the finish. Perhaps this will get more red fruity with further cellaring. Lovely juice.

Balanced and harmonious in a more traditional style, offering lovely rose petal, violet, tar and anise overtones to the supple core of black cherry and plum flavors, finishing sweet and rich, tannins in control.